Geographically speaking the centre of France is most diverse; from the truly flat lands of the Berry, the hills of the Limousin and the Mountains of the Auvergne. Stunning as it is, nature has generally been strict on farmers. The soil, when not covered by rocks is not the most fertile. We French, however, will rarely be put off by such trivia and the recipes for rugged, heart warming stews are legion.

Flat as it may, be the Berry is really just a collection of barren land, forests and marshland. Perfect for really only one thing; the grazing of lamb and goats, though of course it also yields mushrooms, game and fresh water fish. Berrichon lamb is amongst the best in France. Goats’ milk is used in cheese, each local cheese taking its name from the village it’s made. Talleyrand the diplomat who survived the revolution, 3 kings and Napoleon, was given the Château in Valençay by Napoleon. Concerned the pyramid shape of the local cheese would remind his employer of the less than successful foray into Egypt he had the tip lopped off.

This is volcanic country and the Boubonnais benefits from arable land but only good enough for beef and poultry. To the east is the Limousin good enough to have a cow named after it. It is also home to the Clafouti a heavenly baked cherry and custard pie.

It is not really produce or wine that has set this region apart. The culinary world will always have a debt to pay because this is where over a third of French mineral water comes from. Vichy is the most pre-eminent and largest. A small cup of “real” mineral water straight out of the taps at the spa would shock most. This is not the clear refreshing liquid we all know, but something I can only describe a light mineral porridge.

There is one stand out product, Puy lentils. These little grey green gems are a thing of true beauty never better than served in the local way of Petit Salé aux Lentilles (salt pork and lentils).

To the west as the Massif Central starts sweeping towards the Mediteranean, lies an area carpeted with chestnut trees, simply known as the Châtaigneraie (the place of chestnuts).

The area would not on many people’s best cheese list, they are wrong the choice of both cow and goat milk is truly impressive. Cantal, St. Nectaire and the blues of Fourme D’ambert and Bleu D’auvergne.

So why no mention of the Vichyssoise you may ask? It is an AMERICAN invention, it may have its roots in the homely leek and potato Parmentier soup, but no cold soup would keep your average farmer warm a thousand meters above sea level.