I have never quite understood the city within a city that is the City of London. I thought us French could come up with strange quirks but the City of London outdoes most. So here we are in the City of London in the old Stock Exchange building, not the original one which I think burned down many moons ago. The building, which was originally not quite a carbuncle but was no beauty contest winner either, has been redesigned with some style. The best way to describe it is the top bit of a Dalek, but black and sexy and without the death ray. Though not an old building we have managed to make the brasserie really quite warm, and feeling a bit bored I went for a decidedly louche look for the mezzanine floor. We had a enough room for a lovely bar and having recently truly understood the wonders of real ale (serving a good pint takes quite the same skill as cooking) so I’ve put the small cellar on view. All of this is lovely but still leaves me confused; do I now have a Brasserie in London, the City of London or maybe the just the City? No answers on a postcard please.